O'er moorland and brae: Isle of Iona

A ferry took us as pedestrians across to the tiny holy isle of Iona. Us along with hundreds upon hundreds of others on non-stop ferries going all day, every day, over and back from Mull. Amazing how many people crossed. A little like Lourdes. All seeking to find out more about St Columba, who set up a monastery here, and, in doing so, changed Scotland forever.

Columba was Irish. He was born in County Donegal on 7 December, 521, the great great grandson of Niall of the Nine Hostages, king during the fourth century. So, his family was royal, with connections to the King of Dalriada, and it was this kinship that allowed Columba to use Iona as the place for his mission and great calling.

Trained and ordained in Ireland, Columba and twelve of his priests headed from there in a wickerwork currach covered with leatherskin, and landing on the shores of Iona on the eve of the Pentecost, 12 May, 563. Here, they set about building their church, their accommodation cell, and their refectory, using the wattles and rude timbers that were available.

From this quiet and contemplative spot overlooking the gorgeous rose granite coast of Mull Columba set about on his mission: to convert the pagan people, the Picts, who occupied the north and west of Scotland.

Over the waters and in the great glen he and his priests traipsed, right to King Bridei's royal residence at Inverness, where he was refused entry.

But, at the sign of the cross, the large bolts on the castle doors slid open, as did the heavy castle doors, and Columba entered. Bridei was in awe. He had never seen the like, so became very amenable to what Columba came to say. He listened and was soon baptised and his castle kin quickly followed, and for the next thirty-two years the Iona mission men traipsed all over Scotland, baptising the Picts, helping them build churches, and resisting the influence of the pagan Druids, who had held sway until then.

So, now, instead of Druidic standing stones, Celtic crosses began to mark the places of the dead in Scotland. A big change.

Columba's Iona complex became a great Christian centre. He was hardly able to become a hermit there: not that he wanted to. His wish was to help people. And people travelled far and wide, o'er land and sea, to visit him there on pilgrimage.

He and his bishops were the thinking Christians at the time, and their influence was great. Purgatory was a concept introduced by the religious at Iona and remains a guiding belief to this day. As do many of the ideas of Christianity, which were once thought to have stemmed from Ireland, but many, now believe, were born on Iona.

Crosses were big, and began to mark the spot: of burials, borders and barriers. Soon they were everywhere. Kings came to Iona to be buried. It was the place to be interred. All the Scottish kings are buried here, right up to Macbeth. And, even kings from the Norse kingdoms. Masons were in demand decorating them with celtic knots and celtic symbols. So many brought their kin to be buried that overflow cemeteries had to be built on Mull to cope with the demand.

Crosses, the sign and the symbol, became a feature of Columba's calling, and even today, the 1200 year old St Martin's cross, marks the tiny restored chapel believed to hold the remains of St Columba, who died on Iona a little after midnight on the morning of the 9 June, 597, saying his last prayers at the altar during the midnight service.

Relics of Iona have been ransacked by the Vikings, long past. Some glorious pieces, like the exquisitely illustrated and painted Book of Kells which was started on Iona some time after Columba's death have survived. It was spirited away to a sister monastery in Kells in Ireland, but is now in the Old Library at Trinity College in Dublin.

Columba's influence, and Iona, still remain: as he predicted it would.